Choosing and Using Router Bits
Almost every carpenter has tried a cheap router because they were attracted by the low price. As the saying goes, you get what you pay for. It's important to realize that while different brands of cutters may look similar, without accurate measuring and magnifying tools, important differences are difficult to spot.
For example, the shank of a cheap drill is often too small due to careless machining; This could cause the bit to slip in the collet and damage the workpiece. In contrast, Amana cutters are precision ground no less than 0.002" below the collet dimension (PHOTO 1). This ensures that the collet can securely grip the drill shank.
Additionally, Amana uses only the highest quality carbide in all of their bits. Inexpensive drills often use coarse carbide grains that don't hold an edge and can even chip during use. In addition, the carbide tips of the Amana cutters are thicker. This allows the bit to be re-sharpened several times, considerably extending tool life.
Finally, the weld quality of the Amana is second to none. It is the brazing that connects the carbide to the steel body. During manufacturing, the temperature of the soldering process must be carefully controlled; too cold and adhesion will not occur, too much heat can damage the carbide. Amana Tool uses a highly engineered welding process that ensures you receive the highest quality milling bit available.
Invest in a router table
If you read the pages of this catalog carefully, you will find that many bits are too large for use in portable routers. If you study the pages of this site carefully, you will find that many bits are too large for use in portable routers. They are identified by the text in the description on the Use in a desktop router page. Not to be used on a portable router! Flipping your router upside down and mounting it under a table turns it into a mini wood router, allowing you to create a wider variety of profiles than ever before.
For example, you can use your router to create raised panel cabinet doors that are only possible when mounted on a table. ClickHereand take a look at the range of Amana railing and railing sets.
A router table also makes your router safer and cleaner because you can add a guard and dust collection to the fence.
You don't have to spend your entire carpentry budget on a router table; In fact, you can create your own spreadsheet.
Choose a bit size
Please note that many cutters are available in 1/4" and 1/2" shank sizes. If possible, it is better to choose the larger rod size. 1/2 inch drill rods are much stronger and less likely to break than a smaller rod. In fact, a 1/2" rod has nearly four times the surface area of a 1/4" rod. 1/4" shank, however, shank chisels are generally ideal for use on small rolled edges in small cuts, which is why we offer them.
Straight bits and flush cut bits are available in a variety of lengths. Although longer cutting edges are sometimes required, it is best to use the shortest possible length to avoid bit deflection and chatter.
Browsing through the pages of this catalog can be confusing at first due to the many bit options. It helps to first understand what kind of bit you need. Milling cutters are categorized by the type of cut they make.
Profilbits
These are the pieces you can use to create beautiful custom frames for furniture, cabinetry, and trim for your home. Decorative wedges, coves, beads and chamfers are just a few of the many profile pieces you'll find on these pages. Many profiles are available in different sizes. By mixing and matching the sizes and profiles, you can create virtually any frame you can imagine for that specific woodworking project.
When choosing a profile drill, remember that the wooden profile is opposite to the profile of the drill. Amana makes it easy to choose the right profile drill by including an image of the wood next to each profile drill. And to make it even easier, the illustrations are full-size and can be printed online at www.amanatool.com.
slots e retas
You might ask, "Don't notched and straight bits do the same thing?" Yes, but everyone does it differently. Slot cutters cut parallel to the base of the cutter; straight drills cut perpendicular to cutter base. For example, if you are cutting a groove in a curved door track to accommodate the curved panel, you will need a pilot bearing grooved bit. A straight bit will not work for this application and a slotted bit will not cut the data to accommodate shelves on a bookshelf. You need a straight bit for this.
Slotted and straight bits are some of the most useful bits a woodworker can own, so it's important to keep a variety in your bit drawer.
Amana offers a wide range, including their innovative time-saver, the Amana E-Z Dial Slot Cutter in two sizes (PHOTO 2). Simply turn the dial and cut countless slots with just one bit. check this pieceHere.
carpentry drills
These days, with your router and the right bit, you can cut fine woodworking jobs. Amana offers bits for cutting mortise, finger joints, box joints, 45 degree miter locks and even the hallmark dovetail.
corresponding bits
Matching bits are supplied in pairs to cut matching joints such as tongue and groove profiles and profiles and rails to make cabinet doors (PHOTO 3). Check out the popular InStile and Rail Drill SetsHere. These unique drills accurately accommodate today's undersized plywood.
Flush cut and standard bits
These drills increase production perhaps more than any other type of drill. At first glance, flush cutters look like a straight cutter. However, a flush cutter has a guide bearing on the end. The sample bits have a bearing on the shank. Both designs follow a template or pattern to create a perfect duplicate (PHOTO 4). Whether you're making two hundred or two hundred of the same item, you'll need one of these versatile bits.
For a super smooth finish on tough grains, try a spiral cutter.
Some bits in this catalog are specifically designed for use in Computer Numerical Controlled (CNC) routers and should not be used in portable or desktop routers.
Pieces of plastic and aluminum
These bits are specifically designed for use in industries that cut plastic and aluminum.
In-Tech
For greater savings, check out Amana In-Tech BitsHere. These drills use solid carbide inserts that maintain an edge up to four times longer than brazed drills (PHOTO 5). You don't need to sharpen these bits, just replace the inserts and you're back in production. As these unique bits do not require sharpening, the profile remains the same when inserts are exchanged.
Amana In-Tech burs are available in a variety of decorative profiles as well as flush trim and countersink burs.
Below are some helpful guidelines for optimizing your router bits.
Before turning it on, plan how you will cut.Many cutters have a guide bearing on the end that guides the cutter through your choice of curved or straight path. Some bits, like B. straight lines, but require an anvil or chuck to guide the cut.
Before mounting a milling cutter on the milling machineMake sure the router is disconnected from the power supply. For proper assembly, secure the cutter in the cutter collet by inserting the shank to the correct depth, clearly indicated by the laser marked “K”.
Be careful not to damage the carbide.When installing the bit, be careful not to let the bit come into contact with the steel keys or collars on the table top of the router. A sudden impact on a hard surface can damage carbide tips.
Keep the bit clean and sharp.It has proven helpful to regularly clean the drill surfaces of debris with a commercially available tool cleaner. Excessive feed resistance or a rough surface on the workpiece are indications that the drill is dull. Before the bit reaches this point, send it to a reputable grinder for sharpening. Regular sharpening extends the life of the bit by removing less carbide to restore the sharpness of the cutting edge. Never try to sharpen or grind anything yourself, you'll mess up complex geometry.
Store your bits correctly.Router bits are a wood investment that will last for many years if cleaned, sharpened, and stored properly. Never throw bits in a drawer or allow them to come into contact with other router bits or tools.
Use the correct feed rate.There is no set feed rate when using a router, but with practice you will know when to feed the router or workpiece at the optimal rate. Some woodworkers feed the workpiece too slowly out of habit. This will overheat the bit and damage the workpiece. Excessive heat also drastically reduces carbide life. In contrast, feeding too fast can leave a rough washboard surface. When the router powers on, it's usually an indication that it's being overloaded by too fast a power supply. To get an idea of the best feed rate, listen to the router, look at the surface of the wood, and inspect for chips or debris that are produced. When feeding at optimal speed, the router should run smoothly without stress, the workpiece surface should be smooth and free of burn marks or discoloration, and the bit should produce small chips rather than excessive amounts of fine dust.
Adjust the milling speed to the drill diameter.Most current routers have variable speed motors. With the click of a button or the turn of a knob, the speed can be easily adjusted to the drill's diameter. Large bits have a higher edge velocity than small diameter bits when run at the same RPM. Running a drill at high speed to lift a large panel will overheat the drill and workpiece. In contrast, a 1/4 inch diameter straight drill requires a higher RPM to cut smoothly.
Following a few security guidelines will ensure that you have a safe, productive, and enjoyable experience with your router and router bits.
Never climb cut. Always advance against the rotation of the bit.This can be confusing at times and the direction depends on whether you are milling around the perimeter of a workpiece or the inside of a handwork piece or using the router on a table (DRAWING 1). For example:
- If you are measuring the outer circumference of a workpiece, e.g. B. Directing the edge of a table, manually guided, press the router counterclockwise.
- If you are manually milling the inside of a workpiece, e.g. B. an opening or cutout, slide the router clockwise.
- When using a table-mounted router, always slide the rod from right to left.
wear eye protection.This is good advice if you use a power tool.
use hearing protection.Prolonged use of power tools, especially routers, without hearing protection leads to hearing loss. Today it's easier than ever to find comfortable, lightweight and effective hearing protection.
Never start the router with the bit in contact with the workpiece.Instead, allow the router to build up full speed before initiating the cut.
Never use a large bit on a handheld router.Instead, mount the router on a table.
Do not attempt to mill a small workpiece.For example, if you are making a strip of narrow trim, form a wider board, then tear off the trim. The wider shank adds the volume you need and provides more surface area to grip the workpiece.
Do not cut the power cable.Sounds obvious, but if you're using a portable router, keep the cable out of the router's way.
Use pressure sticks.If using a bench-mounted router, use narrow-shank push sticks to keep hands away from the rotary bit.
Use a guard.Install a router table fence guard over the bit. If your router table doesn't have a guard, buy a replacement guard or make one yourself.
Use feather boards.If possible, use trampolines to keep the material in place.
cutting diameter("D") refers to the largest cutting diameter of the tool and is expressed in fractions, decimal places and/or millimeters.
cutting length("B" or "C") refers to the length or "depth" of the cutting edge. This measurement typically represents the cutting edge/length parallel to the shank length, shown in fractions and/or millimeters.
rod diameter(“d”) refers to the largest diameter of the shank and corresponds to the internal diameter of the cutter needed to use the tool. This dimension is represented in fractions.
Total length("L") refers to the total length of a cutter from the top of the shank to the bottom of the tool at its extreme point. This measurement is expressed in fractions and/or millimeters.
Ray(“R”) of a cutting tool edge refers to half the diameter of a full circle and is expressed in fractions and/or millimeters.
chamfered angle("aº") refers to the angle formed between the edge of the cutting tool and a straight line drawn parallel or perpendicular to the length of the shank and is measured in degrees.
calculation angle("T") refers to the angle (or "hook") of the tip of the cutting tool relative to a straight line drawn perpendicularly through the center of the tool. This dimension is measured in degrees.
primary radial clearance("P") refers to the relief grind on the tool tip and is measured in degrees.
second radial play("O") refers to the combined relief cut of the primary clearance and the relief cut in the tool body. This dimension is measured in degrees.
Penetration Release('S') refers to the angle between the edge of the cutting tool and a straight line drawn perpendicular to the tool shank and is measured in degrees. This angle allows for gradual penetration of the material.
web diameter('N') refers to the thickness of the tool's ground steel body, including heel area ('M'). The web must be of adequate thickness to support industrial routing applications.